Cilento to Calabria and back – Coastal bike tour
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Overview
Discover the Tyrrhenian coast by bike - from Cilento via Basilicata to Northern Calabria and the rocky hills that overlook the Mediterranean
Italy's Southern Tyrrhenean coastline is a treasure trove of historical footprints. You'll find traces from the Greeks who settled there for trade, the Romans who ousted both the Greeks and the indigenous Italic peoples, to the various European occupiers throughout the centuries, like the Normans, Longobards, and the Spanish and French.
You'll also find traces of Basilian and Byzantine monastic life, even in the smallest and seemingly most insignificant villages along the coastline.
Your journey starts in Ascea, what was once an important Greek settlement of Hyele, where you can visit the archeological park of Velia. Your journey will take you South along the coast, alternating inland and coastal roads, before winding back north like a braid, so that you hardly ever hit the same road twice.
Based on your physical abilities and the available days, we customize your trip to fit your requirements. The maximum length is 14 days for an experienced biker, but with shorter daily trips you can stay on the trail for up to 20 days.
This tour takes place on 99% asphalt roads and is suitable for touring, trekking, racing and gravel bikes.
We've pre-selected an 8-day and a 15-day variant for your convenience. Feel free to contact us for a personalized program that fits your needs!
Trip included
Included in your price are:
- Accommodations based on Bed and Breakfast
- Pre-travel information about your accommodations, nearby restaurants and POIs on your route
- GPS navigation files for any navigation device
- A Cervati Tours goodie bag
- Cervati Tours local support by WhatsApp, phone or - if the need should arise - in person
Trip excluded
Not included but available as an extra during the checkout process:
- Bike rental
Not included but possible to after the initial purchase:
- Evening meals
- Transport from/to the nearest Airports (Naples NAP, Salerno QSR)
- Customizations and other requests
Let us know how we can help!
Map
Itinerary
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Nowadays, Ascea Marina is a busy beach town during the summer months with mostly Italian guests, while in the off-season you might find it sleepy and even somewhat deserted. In ancient times, it was an important Greek settlement founded by the Phocaea called Hyele or Elea. It was later taken over by the Romans who gave it the name Velia, which persists until today as the name of the archeological park nearby town.
You will arrive in Ascea by train or private transport, where you will find your way to your first accommodation.
Depending on the hour of the day and time of year, you can enjoy a dip in the Mediterranean before settling in for the night. Alternatively, you can visit the archeological site of Velia. This site is much less developed than for example Herculaneum or Pompeii, but nevertheless tells a compelling story of survival, occupation, migration and trade throughout the rich history of this area of the Mediterranean.
For your evening meal, you'll find Ascea marina has a fair choice of restaurants, both in the village and on the beachfront.
- Distance: 55km
- Elevation gain: 1200m
- Elevation loss: 750m
You'll start off your first day with a climb up the steep hill behind Ascea Marina, up into the historic center of Ascea village. On your route you will find the town of Pisciotta, which gave its name to the high olive trees, the Pisciottana, that grow all along the coastal area. This town was a seaside sediment for the fortified town of Rodio up the steep hillside.
You will come by or even sleep in/near Pisciotta on the way back, so don't worry if you weren't quite ready for a break; you'll have a chance to visit the town later. Your route continues all along the coast without much climbing, until you reach Palinuro, here you might want to consider a break, before reaching Marina di Camerota and starting on your major climb of the day toward Lentiscosa. You'll need to conquer this steep mountain because there is no coastal road that goes around the rocky coastline of the Infreschi bay.
Once on top you'll find a plateau with beautiful views over the sea. Before reaching your destination of San Giovanni, we recommend you visit the Piano di Ciolandrea, a lookout point where, on a clear day, you can see all the way to Sicily.
You'll find your accommodation in San Giovanni a Piro, at the foot of the majestic Monte Bulgheria, also called the sleeping lioness because of its shape.
- Distance: 55km
- Elevation gain: 1350m
- Elevation loss: 1450m
From San Giovanni a Piro, you'll descend towards the town of Scario, one of the prettiest towns on the Cilentano coast, with its pleasure port and boardwalk full of little restaurants and ice cream shops. You'll find it less busy in the low season, of course, but Scario attracts visitors all year long.
From here you'll follow the coastal road to Policastro Bussentino, named after the the Buxus plant that grew richly all along the river Bussento that joins the sea here. The name Policastro was added by the early middle ages, meaning town of many castles, because of the Byzantine castle built on the rise just above the town.
You'll take the road to Santa Marina, which sports a beautiful lookout point, only to continue inland to Morigerati. This small village is home of the WWF Oasis of the Bussento Caves, a beautiful small nature reserve that is definitely worth a visit if you have the time.
From here you'll proceed to Casaletto Spartano, where you'll find the Capelli di Venere (Venus' Hair) waterfall at only a few meters from the roadside.
You'll then ride on towards your day's destination of Torraca, then on to Sapri, a medium sized town with a city beach lined with a boardwalk.
Here you can find the statue of then Spigolatrice, inspired by a poem that recounts from this young farmer girl's point of view, the liberation invasion of Sapri and its hinterland by Carlo Pisacane and his 300 men.
Sapri has a wide choice of restaurants, from humble trattorias to the experimental cuisine of internationally renowned chef Pascal in IO Restaurant.
- Distance: 60km
- Elevation gain: 1750m
- Elevation loss: 1050m
A feisty leg with two big climbs, that will take you all the way to Castellucio Superiore in the green mountains of Basilicata on the edge of Calabria and the Pollino National Park.
Starting from Sapri by the sea, you'll follow one of the most spectacular coastal roads from Sapri to Maratea, where you will travel up into the mountains towards Trecchina.
This pretty town, situated on a small plateau between several mountain has a history that goes back to about 300BC, and has been occupied by virtually all peoples that have come through this region through the centuries, from Greeks and Romans to Goths, Longobards and Saracens.
From Trecchina you'll ride down to the river Noce, where you'll need to cross underneath the superstrada that follows the river down to the sea. You'll stay inland, however, climbing back up out the river gorge toward Lauria, where you'll settle in for the night.
Lauria is suspected to have ancient origins, although this is hard to confirm since its entire archive got destroyed in the Lauria Massacre of 1806, when Napoleonic troops sacked the town for staying loyal to the Bourbon overlords. Lauria and its surrounding area, being located on the Via Popilia, is unlikely to have been unpopulated in Roman or even Greek times, but there haven't been structural efforts to unearth its historic roots through archeological research. Today, it's a flourishing town of 10K inhabitants that profits from its proximity to both the sea and the main highway between Salerno and Reggio Calabria.
From here it's one more push toward Castelluccio, a route that runs for the most part on a bike path that follows the old Calabro-Lucano trainline. You'll need to get momentarily off the bike path to cross underneath the highway, but after that it's smooth sailing until Castelluccio.
You'll settle into one of the numerous B&Bs in the upper town (hence superiore) to rest up for the night.
- Distance: 60km
- Elevation gain: 1450m
- Elevation loss: 1850m
Part of your day's journey will make use of the bike path over the old railway line between Calabria and Basilicata.
[...] taking the long descent to Laino Borgo, then up again to Mormanno. Both villages are worth a visit if you have time.
Your hard work is rewarded with a beautiful descent towards Orsomarso and finally Santa Maria del Cedro, on the last part of this leg.
- Distance: 60km
- Elevation gain: 1250m
- Elevation loss: 950m
From Santa Maria you'll reach the Calabrian coastline of Cirella and Diamante, both of which have a historic center on the seashore and offer access to the sea as well as many hospitality services. Either of them are a great place for a coffee break. You'll proceed along the coastline toward Belvedere Maritima, which is the last town before your climb around the Pollino National Park.
The beautifully winding provincial road will take you over mountain passes and through small villages like Sant' Agata and San Sosti. Your day's journey ends in the cyclists' hospitality point of Policastrello, a tiny village that sits between the hills at the foot of the National Park.
Here you are assured a warm welcome and all the services a cyclist can wish for after a day's hard work on the saddle.
- Distance: 55km
- Elevation gain: 1250m
- Elevation loss: 1000m
From Policastrello your road continues upward into the hills of the Pollino near San Donato di Ninea and Acquaformosa then down again to Lungro and Firmo, sleepy towns that seem to have remained stuck in the 1990's.
Here they are used to seeing cyclists, but you're still likely to get a question or two from the locals if you stop for a break in the town square.
Past Firmo you'll take the secondary provinciale road to Castrovillari, a steady climb that takes you through the village of San Basile before reaching this medium sized town. Castrovillari, whose name means fortified houses, was likely inhabited since pre-historic times, but the first artefacts indicating a settlement were from Greek times, when it was an important stop on the Via Istmica between the cities of Sibari and Paestum.
In Castrovillari you'll find the next stretch of the same Calabro-Lucano bike path you've already traveled on day 5. It's a short ride to Morano Calabro, where you'll stay in one of the town's charming B&Bs.
- Distance: 60km
- Elevation gain: 1100m
- Elevation loss: 1650m
Leaving the charming town of Morano, you route takes you back down to the beach, this time in Scalea.
Before getting there, you'll find your way back onto the bike path, that takes you up the hill through fields and orchards and the down again towards the river Lao.
This river is not only instrumental in irrigation and fresh water supply to the coastal areas, but is is also a beautiful natural resource. The river is also used for rafting and other water sports, with Papasidero as a popular point of departure.
Both Papasidero and Santa Domenica, a little further down the spectacular winding road are great opportunities to give your wrists a break. and to enjoy the views down on the Mediterranean sea and your destination of Scalea.
Scalea is a busy beach town in summer, but mostly nice and quiet in the off season. Scalea's small historic center is worth a walk. Whenever possible we'll book your room in this part of town, which is prettier than the beachfront and well-served with food places. You'll still be at walking distance from the waterfront for a fresh dive after your ride or in the early morning.
- Distance: 60km
- Elevation gain: 1750m
- Elevation loss: 1050m
Leaving Scalea behind you are also ready to leave Calabria for another round of Basilicata. The road that leads from Scalea via Praia Mare takes a right at Tortora Marina towards the hills. As soon as you've left the busy seaside area, you are surrounded by green hills and orchards. You'll come by the archeological site of the old city of Blanda from Lucanian times (700-300 BC), most of whose artifacts are on display in the nearby museum.
You'll ride through the pretty town of Tortora in the hills, which sports narrow cobblestone streets and amazing views over the nearby valley and the coast behind you. After a short break here you'll leave the village and turn left onto the mountain road that connects to Lauria, a town you've crossed on day 4.
In this landscape of bare hillsides and very few houses, you'll feel the silence open your senses, the wind and sun touching your skin as you meander over the winding road's patchy asphalt. Your return to 'civilization' will come in the form of a hamlet called Cerri, a sleepy village with no services, and later Melara, which has a shop and a bar whare you can take well-deserved break before proceeding towards Sirino.
You'll ride through the town of Lauria, which is worth a visit if you haven't stopped there on day 4 already. From here you'll find the final stretch of the bike path to take you to the Lago di Sirino, a small hamlet by a lake that sports a number of great restaurants and quality accommodations where you can rest up for the night.
- Distance: 55km
- Elevation gain: 550m
- Elevation loss: 1250m
Perhaps the easiest leg of the entire trip, you'll be riding mostly downhill or flat along the coast.
From the lake of Sirino, you'll ride on the bike path in the direction of Lagonegro. Before reaching it however, you'll take towards Rivello, an impressive hilltop town with spectacular view on either side of the village. Here you can visit the St. Antonio convent or just relax enjoying the view from the square while sipping a coffee.
From Rivello you'll need to climb over the mountain pass near Monte Rotondo, where you'll cross over the superstrada that runs next to the river Noce, before heading downhill towards Sapri. This time you'll stick to the coastal roads of the Policastro Gulf, following the bike path where available and the provincial road where necessary.
After leaving Policastro's marina, the route takes you straight to Scario, where you'll ba able to take a dip in the sea and/or a stroll along the boardwalk while choosing one of the town's many great restaurants.
- Distance: 45km
- Elevation gain: 1150m
- Elevation loss: 900m
Today's route takes you all along the foot of the Bulgheria Mountain or sleeping lioness. In the town of Bosco, you can admire the maiolica mural by Ortega, friend and contemporary of Picasso, depicting the massacre that took place there in 1828 in the scuffle for Italian independence.
The relatively short distance of this leg also gives you time to stop and visit Roccagloriosa, which has an archeological site that unearths the Lucanian history of this area, and a medieval castle with views that give you an idea of the vastness of the Cilento National Park area.
After Roccagloriosa, you'll rejoin the road towards the shoreline, which takes you by the ghost town of Sanseverino di Centola. This abandoned town is built on a narrow ridge and is definitely worth a visit if you can spare the time.
After riding through Foria and Centola, you'll reach the sea once more, only a short distance from Pisciotta, where you'll spend the night. The town is a maze of small streets and staircases that you can lose yourself in for an hour or so. You'll find many cats that are cared for by the villagers in a communal effort, most of them friendly and curious to meet new people.
- Distance: 5km
- Elevation gain: 1350m
- Elevation loss: 1550m
After leaving the picturesque town of Pisciotta, your route will take you up to Novia Velia and then back down again to Marina di Casalvelino, both of which are named after the ancient city of Velia where your adventure started.
The sometimes steep climb inland takes you through Rodio and Terradura, places of refuge in historic times when the coastal settlements suffered from various disasters, like Saracen attacks, landslides and bouts of malaria. Evidently, the dry land and fresh breeze were worth the logistic nightmare of living and working on a steep mountainside.
The upward stretch ends in Novi Velia, which sits at the foot of the Monte Gelbison (from Arabic Gebel-El-Son, or mountain of the idol), famous for its sanctuary and church, which was no doubt predated by other religions and devotions. The mountain still holds an almost magical grip on the inhabitants of Novi Velia, who do at least one pelgrimage a year to the top.
From Novio Velia you'll ride back down towards the sea, around Vallo della Lucania, then through Castelnuovo Cilento and Velina before reaching your destination of the day, Marina di Casalvelino.
- Distance: 45km
- Elevation gain: 850m
- Elevation loss: 850m
Today's leg is dedicated to the Mediterranean Diet. From your accommodation it is only a short ride to Pioppi, where you'll find a museum dedicated to the life's work of Ancel and Margaret Keys, who after staying in this area were compelled to ask and answer the question why people lived to such an old age in good health in this region.
Their answer, the Mediterranean Diet, was always part and parcel of daily life in Cilento, but became a phenomenon once the term was keyed.
In Pollica, next on your itinerary, you will find the Future Food Institute, an international organization with offices in Japan, USA and Europe, that studies and debates all things food. It is open most days, and spontaneous visitors are welcomed and are free to look around and ask questions.
After Pollica, you'll proceed toward the town of Castellabate, where you can try experience what the Mediterranean diet means on your own plate in one of our recommended restaurants.
On you way there, you'll drive through the princedom of Punta Licosa, a private property that is open to visitors to pass through on foot or by bike. The road takes you all along the coast, where you can step through the tree and onto small beach or rocky reef to enjoy the water without onlookers.
Finally, you will retire for the evening in San Marco di Castellabate, where you can enjoy the sunset at the marina or from one of the town's beaches.
- Distance: 50km
- Elevation gain: 950m
- Elevation loss: 1000m
On your last leg of this tour you will climb inland one final time to the town of Castellabate. This village gained national fame when it became the background for a comedy about the many differences, prejudices and misunderstandings between North and South Italians.
The movie Benvenuti al Sud is obviously an exaggeration, but it was hugely popular and has made this village into somewhat of a tourist attraction. The town center is indeed lovely and worth a walk or a short coffee break.
From Castellabate, you'll proceed toward Perdifumo and Mercato Cilento, before heading south toward Stella Cilento and Casal Velino. This last town is not only beautiful but had a histric importance to the port of Velia.
The Medieval settlement goes back to the 10th century AD, when a monk by the name of Anatasio deposited the saintly remains of Saint Matthew in a small church near the town's marina, and a monastery grew around te church. The town center in the hills is medieval and was the background of the so-called congiura dei baroni (conspiracy of the barons) in 1484, a resistance movement against the Aragon King Ferdinand in Naples.
From Casal Velino town, you will once again cross Marina di Casal Velino before riding into Ascea. Before you arrival in town you will ride by the entrance of the archeological site of Velia on your left.
After checking out, you have the choice of taking public or private transportation to your next stop.
If you have some time left before traveling on, you could take a look at the archeological site of Velia. Or, in case you feel like going for a walk, there is a 2km hiking path called the Sentiero degli Innamorati (the lovers' path) on the Southern edge of the beach, that takes you to a spectacular lookout point.
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