The people of the light
Cervati Tours is active in a large but nevertheless limited territory, which we identify as Lucania. The Lucanians received their name from the ancient Romans when they traveled South to conquer new lands and create their own settlements. What they encountered were an indigenous people that shared a language and culture over a vast territory spanning from the coast of what is nowadays Cilento (South of Salerno City) all the way into present-day Basilicata (stopping short of Matera) and into the Calabrian Province of Cosenza.
What is known today about the illustrious Lucanians is mostly taken from Roman historiography. Roman administrators describe a variety of local tribal communities, vying amongst themselves for control over lands and access routes. They spoke mostly Oscan, and Italic language of Indo-European origin. Their society, mostly based on a pastoral economy, moving its settlements around rather flexibly, is described as having a clear set of democratic institutions and free trade both within and outside the tribal structures. In wartime, their decisionmaking processes would be handed over to a single leader for the duration of the conflict.
Their autonomy on the territories they controlled came to an end around the year 80 BC, when having allied themselves against a Roman presence that was getting more consolidated year by year, their numbers declined to a point where they were no longer able to assert any form of territorial control, ending up being absorbed into the societal structures of their conquerers.
Today, there is of course little left of this ancient people who lived off the land, traveling with their goats and sheep, trading and fighting over territorial control. So then: why is Lucania even a thing in the 21st century?
Probably the most logical explanation is that Lucania exists in the imagination of present-day Italians who inhabit the area, because it provides a sense of cultural pride to people who feel they are at a disadvantage to their Northern compatriots, combatting not only the real economic challenges, but also the sterotypes about themselves and their home. The 2010 movie “Benvenuti al Sud” offers a lighthearted but very true peek into the differences and prejudices between North and South Italians.
So then what is Lucania to those who proudly identify as Lucani? The answers are manifold, but there are some clear common threads:
One has to do with the value people give to their land and everything that lives and grows there.
For example, Cilento prides itself on being one of the regions with the most centenarians world-wide. Here, living healthily and achieving longevity is both a conscious choice and a a matter of course. After all, with all this natural richess surrounding you, how can you make any other choice than to breathe only the freshest air, eat only the best food and live a stress-free life?
Food culture is perhaps the strongest unifier in expressing Lucanian identity, with recipes, conservation methods, and traditional meals marking the seasons and key festivities year after year.
Another thread has to do with language. Even though there is no definitive evidence that local dialects still have strong Oscan linguistic influences, there is an instant linguistic recognition between Lucani. There are many many dialects in the area, mostly specific to a single town, but there are also many many words and expressions that help Lucani to recognize each other as such. For a number of decades following World War II, local dialects were considered inferior to mainstream Italian. Fortunately, dialects are making a comeback, with local theater groups, artists, writers and poets finding inspiration in the language of their (great-great-) grandparents.
Finally, there is a common thread in ritual. Shared rites mark key moments in the year or in a lifetime; some Catholic, some pagan, others a fascinating mix of both. Lucania is a perfect example of Christianity’s ability to absorb and incorporate pagan and naturalistic feasts, like fertility rites in spring and autumn. And even though Catholicism has the religious monopoly on South Italy, the experience of being devoted to a Madonna is not necessarily one of Catholic faith.
So what of the Lucani themselves? They are often described as modest, even shy, yet curious and hospitable. Don’t be too offended if people stare at you a little in a small town, it just means they’re curious. Maybe nobody will permit themselves to open a conversation, but if you choose to interact with people, you may end up sharing a coffee at the bar or even a home-cooked meal at someone’s dinner table. Chances are you’ll find out they have either lived in your country or have relatives there. Don’t be entirely surprised if you get asked “chi sei?” (who are you?), “a chi appartieni?” (who do you belong to?) or “a chi sei figlio?” (of whom are you a child?). Whereas in some countries you are identified in terms of your degree, career or job, here familial relations are the way you are given a place in the scheme of things.
And so the best way to get to know this Lucania is through the people who live there. Luckily, you’ll find that the internet has pretty lousy coverage and the Maps app on your phone will invariably get you lost. So you’ll have lots of opportunities to make contact, ask directions, and meet wonderful strangers.
Cross Basilicata from the Ionian to the Tyrrhenian Sea on MTB, Gravel or Tour bike through amazing and dramatic landscapes
travel out of the box
Cervati Tours is specialized in slow and sustainable travel in a well-defined area of South Italy. We offer in-depth experiences that translate into a great trip for you and a clear benefit to local communities. Your experience is unique – it’s up to you to decide how you travel and interact with us: